To guide the board through a planer with a blunt knife and to grind it with coarse gravel is necessary for the veneer, as it is a somewhat hard surface that needs to be sanded.
You do not want to start with grit that is too coarse, otherwise, you run the risk of sanding scratches, and that would be a total waste of time and energy. You can finish the surface with 180 grit, for example, but you can also start with a finer grit of 150 grit or even 200 grit, and start again with coarse grit.
Decide what you need for your workpiece, examine it, and beat it again with what you can find within reach. Some areas may need a little color, especially if the color you used has a lot of shine, but that's up to you.
Next, use your sanding block to sand the top edge where it meets the plywood, and then the bottom edge. Most of the parts made with laminated timber have a front frame that covers the edges, but not all.
With the sanding block, you sanding the sides of the plywood and the edges, except on the floor and sides where you have left excess veneer thickness. That's actually a bit of a rounded edge you could get if you don't look for it, but it doesn't feel like it's going to come off at all. Use your 80 'sanding pad to sanding pretty much any surface on the tabletop with the veneer, and then the top and bottom edges.
That's a lot of grinding because you end up getting the shine you want, but you're not too upset about it.
I talked before about how to paint MDF and get a smooth edge, and then it was time to try iron veneer, so I wiped the wood clean with a cloth and sanded it.
This simple trick can give a nice lacquer finish on plywood, but if you build with clear-coated - wood, you should better use edge banding technology.
After cutting the plywood parts, sanding is first done with 120-grit sandpaper and sanded with 150 grit after cutting. After applying the surface, you should sand your project with either 150 grit or 180 grit sandpaper to finish it.
Be careful when sanding with an electric sander, as the plywood veneer layer is quite thin, so it is easy to sand the lower layers without realizing what is happening. Keep the direction in which you sand in line with the wood grain to avoid visible scars in the grain. When you are finished sanding, wipe the dust with a damp cloth and let the workpiece dry.
Since plywood veneer is not a very porous material, a single layer is sufficient to create a professional surface. Dip a brush into the material and brush the surface of the plywood slowly, thinly and as evenly as possible. When the first layer has dried, clean the dust and sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper.
Let it dry and then apply a second or even third layer with fine sandpaper and sand, one layer at a time, until it is dry.
When you sanding, you need to remove wood dust from the plywood and sand it to fill the gaps so that you get a smooth surface before painting. When you paint it inside, cover any areas that may be inadvertently infested with paint dust.
If you do not remove the dust, it will have a negative effect on the surface, especially in the areas of the wood that are to be painted.
If you choose an electric or orbital sander for light sanding, you should make sure that you sanding in several steps and not through the thin outer layer of plywood. Since the softwood layer is usually a material used by many DIY enthusiasts, you might want to consider sanding through multiple layers, not just the outer layers.
For example, you start with a low grain size of 150 and go on to the final grinding (180 - 220) for 180 to 220. It is a good policy to grind with bruises when applying stains, but not to soil the sand side from the lowest grit (150) to the last grit.
When sanding on a flat surface, use the flat block to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer sandpaper. The most efficient way is to use a finer grit, which can be used to sand for a little longer. Remove the ground dust with the same sandpaper used on the last machine grinders. If you use one of the three sanding methods, you can remove sand with one or more grains from the surface of your wood.
It has a hard cushion on the bottom that keeps the surface flat, and a flat block on top of the block for easy access.