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Fujian Zhangzhou, Xintai Industrial Park, Changtai Economic Development Zone, Zhangzhou, Fujian, China

Can You Sand Plywood Smooth

Views: 0     Author: Site Editor     Publish Time: 2020-07-27      Origin: Site

To pass a board through a planer with a blunt knife, to walk through the boards with planers and blunt knives requires coarse grit, as does the veneer, and that is what we want. 

For example, you can finish the surface with 180 grits and start with a coarse grain size of 1 / 4 to 1.5 grits. You don't want to start too coarsely, because you risk sanding scratches, but that would be a total waste of time and energy. 

Examine your workpiece and decide what you think is necessary and beat it again with what you can find within reach. If the color you have used has a lot of shine, this area may need a little freshening up the color. 

Next, sanding the top edge where it meets the plywood edge trimming saw with a sanding block, and then the bottom edge of the front frame. Most pieces made of laminated wood have a front frame covered edge, but not all plywood parts. 

If this is the case, you can sand the edge with a sanding block to cut the increased grain. On the bottom, where you have left excess veneer thickness, use a sanding block to sanding it onto the surface of the tabletop. I've actually begged for a bit of rounded edge that gets a bit thick so it doesn't look like it's going to come off, but it feels like it at all. 

If the plywood edge is pitted, a wood filler or plastic putty or a knife will help to smooth it. Once the wood fillers have dried, a light sanding should be sufficient to obtain a smooth wooden edge. 

For a smoother coating, a final sanding with paper in grain size 150 is recommended, as it lacquers the wood surface. It leaves little teeth and surface color grip on the woods, while more sanded yields no color - smoother finish. 

Fine - sandpaper is sometimes used to roughen up glossy paint in preparation for applying a coat of paint. Do not apply a high gloss coating, which must be sanded off with fine sandpaper after each coat. 

Raw wood that is stained should not normally be sanded with a grain paper higher than 220. In addition, you should consider using an orbital sander, as it does not alter the appearance of the natural wood. 

If you are trying to get rid of the increased grain, the ultimate goal of sanding should be a smooth wood surface. This looks better than the entire surface but can take some time to sand the wood and can cause a lot of damage. 

One trick I sometimes hear about is wetting the wood before the next or last sanding. This promotes adhesion and remedies the problem of increased grain, but can also cause problems when sanding previously painted wood. 

If you use a water-based stain, you can grind and bury the increased grain caused by it, but if you use it, you will grind it through. This solves the problem because it takes hours for the wood to dry enough, which seriously slows down production, and the last gravel is sanded through, so the point at which this gravel is used is to remove the scratch from the previous gravel. A better solution, at least for water-based surfaces, is to sand the first layer as it dries, taking care not to sand all the passes. 

For example, it goes from 180 - 220 to the last grinding with a 180 / 220 and then again to 220. If you are applying a stain, it is a good policy to sand the snippets as quickly as possible after drying, rather than applying it as you would. 

When sanding on a flat surface, use flat blocks to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer sandpaper. The most efficient way is to use one or more grains, which can be used to sand a little longer. Remove the ground dust by using the same sanding grain that you used in the last machine sanding. I have used all three of these sandbag methods in the past, except for the first and second in this post. 

The abrasive grain often removes the stock faster than the grain, but it also causes more damage to the wood.

It is tempting to take a piece of sandpaper and grind it without using a support block. If you get into a situation where you cannot avoid sanding the grain, such as in a joint where two parts meet at a right angle, you should try using an abrasive such as sandpaper, sandboard, or even a paper towel. It can create an uneven surface if the sandpaper is not laid perfectly flat on the wood surface. 

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