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Fujian Zhangzhou, Xintai Industrial Park, Changtai Economic Development Zone, Zhangzhou, Fujian, China

Can I Sand The Plywood

Views: 1     Author: Site Editor     Publish Time: 2020-07-29      Origin: Site

The most efficient method is to start with a sufficiently coarse abrasive grain to cut quickly, but not too coarse to scratch. The coarse grain scratches should be sanded to the desired smoothness on ever finer grain. There is an agreement that both grinding methods are essential for the best results, not only for a smooth surface but also for an overall smooth surface. 

The first thing to know when preparing for sanding a project is what kind of sandpaper or sanding wheel is required to get the job done. After applying the surface, the project should be sanded with sandpaper in grain 150 or 180 to finish it. 

Be careful when sanding with an electric sander, as the plywood veneer layer is quite thin so that the lower layers can be sanded easily without realizing what is happening. Keep the ground directly in line with the wood grain to avoid visible scars in the grain. When you are done, wipe the dust with damp cloths and let the workpiece dry. To finish sand, behave in a direction that sand at least 1 / 2 inch (3 / 4 inch) above the surface of the laminated wood. 

It is sanded a lot to get the desired shine at the end. Therefore, use an 80s sanding pad to sand the sides of the plywood cutting saw and the edges. 

Wipe the wood clean with a cloth and then it is time to try the iron veneer, Wipe it clean and sanding it again. I have previously shared with you how to paint MDF and get a smooth edge, but then there was a time when I tried the iron veneers. 

With this simple trick, you can get a nice varnish of the plywood, but after you have covered it with clear varnish you would use edge banding and build it up again. 

After cutting the plywood parts to size, sanding is first done with 120-grit sandpaper and then sanded with 180-220 grits. If you want to apply a stain, it is a good policy to sand with snippets, but not too hard. 

When sanding on a flat surface, use flat blocks to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer grains of sandpaper. If you can use a finer grain to sand a little longer, do it, but it is most efficient to use the same grain of sandpaper that you used on the last sanding machine. After using all three sanding methods, remove the ground dust with a fine sander, such as a 1 / 4-inch piece of plywood. 

One trick I sometimes hear about is wetting the wood before the next and last sanding, but I have yet to experience it myself. 

If the wood takes hours to dry enough to seriously slow down production, you can solve the problem by sanding the last grit, which then sands it down so that the point of using the grit is to remove the scratch from the previous grit. If you use a water-based stain, the increased grain caused by the water-based stains can be ground off and buried by using the stain. A better solution, at least for water-based surfaces, is to sand the first layer as it dries, taking care not to sink through. 

If you choose a powered orbital sander for light sanding, there are several steps to grind from the first to the last grit. Since softwood layers are often the material that many do-it-yourselfers use, you might want to consider sanding not the thin outer layer of plywood, but the entire surface. 

Starting with a low grain such as 150, the sand on the sides will color more easily than the outer layer of plywood. 

It is tempting to take a piece of sandpaper and grind it off with the back, but it often removes the ground grain from the stock faster than you go through the grain. If you get into a situation where you cannot avoid grinding the grains, such as at the joint where the two parts meet at right angles, try a sander with a high and a low grain, or even a medium grain or two. 

On the other hand, it is surprising how much sanding a veneered surface can take and how quickly. One of the most common mistakes people make when sanding wood is to walk too easily and use too fine grit. If the sandpaper does not lie perfectly flat on the wood surface, an uneven surface will result. 

The coarseness of sandpaper is sometimes described with words such as "fine," "medium" or "coarse," but this is not always the case. 

If you are biting hard, it is quite possible that it is time to change the sandpaper to something a little coarse, such as a fine - to medium - sandpaper. 

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